Falkland Islands Part 1, Days 7 & 8

The day after Puerto Madryn was a sea day and Christmas Eve! Brian and I attended our second Spanish class--so fun! Then we walked on the promenade deck. The wind was cold, but we were bundled up. We attended a talk about Magellan the explorer and one about Antarctica. The latter was given by a scientist who has done research on Antarctica. Very interesting. In the afternoon, we attended the Nutcracker Tea, which felt Christmas-y with goodies and live music played from the Nutcracker ballet. In the evening after dinner we attended a show featuring a pianist who played several pieces including Christmas and Hanukkah songs.

Christmas morning we arose early to eat breakfast and get ready to depart for our excursion to Volunteer Point where we would see penguins! The ship anchored out in the bay, so we took the ship's life/tender boats to Port Stanley, the largest town on the Falkland Islands. 

Top Tip: We had read about this cruise and specifically the excursion out to Volunteer Point. The excursion offered by Holland America sells out fast, well before the cruise embarks, and is significantly more expensive than the local tour we booked with Jimmy Curtis Tours  https://jimmycurtistouring.com/. 

When booking third party excursions, the concern is always, "Will they get us back to the ship on time?" Jimmy Curtis Tours assured us that yes, they would. They were certain because all the tours, third party and HA tours, leave together at the same time. That's about two dozen Range Rovers departing for Volunteer Point together. The reason is that, for the second half of the trip, the terrain is rough, undulating and pocked with peat bogs, puddles, slow-moving streams and pools, and mud. All the tours drive out to Volunteer Point together so that if anyone gets stuck, help is readily available. 

Just off the dock where we disembarked from the tender boat, is Port Stanley's meeting point for all tours (above). We easily found Jimmy Curtis Tours based on the instructions emailed to us. 

Our driver, Bradley, was born and raised on the Falkland Islands. He did a great job getting us to Volunteer Point and back to Port Stanley. Sometimes re-tracing or back-tracking was required, but that seemed normal and all part of the adventure. We shared the Range Rover with a couple from North Carolina. We enjoyed cheering on Bradley when he drove as the leader for part of the way. It was his first time to lead the bunch. 

The Falkland Islands have a rocky, windswept, and treeless landscape. Any trees you see were planted and are usually bent by the wind. 

It takes two hours to get out to Volunteer Point. Above is the halfway point where we had a break to stretch our legs and use the restroom. Because of the cold wind, I was SO glad to have my warm, hooded parka. Up to this point we had been on paved roads. From here to the penguins, we would travel on gravel, dirt, and grass tracks. 

The first penguin spotted from our vehicle is a Magellanic penguin named after the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan. They build their nests in burrows in the turf . . .

. . . and at the beach. 

I was surprised by the beautiful turquoise color of the Atlantic Ocean here. 

Magellanic penguins are shy, but we were told that if we were quiet and still, they would become comfortable with our presence.

The next species of penguins at Volunteer Point is the Gentoo. Below they are grouped together in a depression with their backs to the wind, protecting their chicks. Gentoos all lay their eggs at the same time, so the babies develop together at the same rate. 

Gentoos are the fastest swimming underwater birds in the world, reaching 22 mph. They have a distinctive wide band of feathers over the top of their heads. Their beaks are bright orange and their feet are peach-colored. Gentoos also have the longest tails of all 17 species of penguin. Unbeknownst to us at the time, later in the cruise in Antarctica we will see the largest Gentoo breeding colony in the world.

Next up we have the third and final penguin species at Volunteer Point -- the King penguin. Does the photo below remind you of one certain Beatles album cover?

The King penguin is the second largest penguin while the Emperor penguin is the largest. Kings stand three feet tall and weigh between 22 and 35 pounds. They were by far the most numerous species at Volunteer Point. 

Some stayed together in large groups, while small groups wandered off to do their own thing. These below on the beach seemed to be trying to decide if it is safe to enter the water and go fishing. Our driver told us later that he saw a seal cruising around just off the beach. I expect the penguins know they're out there, and they don't want to end up as seal lunch.

Notice below that the King penguin chicks are in a variety of stages of their adult feathers coming in. This is because, unlike the Gentoos, King penguins do not lay their eggs all at the same time. 

We expected to see penguins and even other birds, but we did not expect to see sheep peacefully grazing in the vicinity of the penguins. It seems such an incongruent picture. 

Visiting Volunteer Point is an excellent example of one of our main travel motivations--to enjoy God's glorious creation. Sometimes it's surprising and even quirky, but it displays His majesty nonetheless.

Bonus Tip: Expect the unexpected. Keeping an open mind and staying flexible can make travel in unusual places wondrous and delightful.